Pierre Reboul has travelled far and wide. He was Michel Chabran's apprentice in Pont-de-l'Isère, then a member of the team under the great Jacques Pic (Anne-Sophie Pic's father) in Valence, before cooking in Paris at Taillevent and Rostang, and ultimately opening his own restaurants in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Tain-l'Hermitage and Aix-en-Provence. His playful, creative, slightly molecular style of cuisine comes into its own in the elegant setting of this 16C château. Texture, inventiveness, respect for seasonality (permaculture vegetables and sustainable fishing): he ensures the fundamentals are observed.