In the Romains district, 10 minutes from the centre, take a seat in this long, Scandinavian-inspired dining room opened by a chef who did a stint at Le Clos des Sens with Laurent Petit, before globe-trotting around the planet. The memory of his line-caught cod, tetragon, lemon and capers à la grenobloise lingers with us still. Alban’s instinctive, fine dining score (free of butter, cream and milk, except for desserts) is, for the most part, dictated by the availability of fresh market produce (such as baked apricots, honey and rhubarb sorbet), which are then given a deft professional spin. Mystery menu in several courses in the evening.