Within the medieval walled city, this is your best bet if you want to avoid the tourist traps. Up the stairs, you'll find the pared-back dining area leading onto a courtyard terrace for dining in fine weather. On the menu, traditional and modern go hand in hand: 64-degree egg, truffle and button mushrooms; cassoulet with Castelnaudary beans and duck confit; pavlova with seasonal fruit and vanilla mascarpone cream.