On the way into town, this eatery ticks all the boxes: an owner-chef with a fine CV – including 15 years at Le Grand Véfour, who has returned to his roots in Évian and generous, traditional cooking that keeps pace with the seasons. Fricassée of sweetbread and green peas; free-range chicken, lemon confit and roquette; tartare of Charolais beef; fillets of fresh perch…