Saumur: A journey through time and wine
In the heart of the Loire Valley, where rolling vineyards meet ancient limestone cliffs, a town of timeless charm awaits discovery. Saumur, with its fairy-tale castle and world-renowned wines, stands as a testament to the enduring allure of France's rich heritage and culinary traditions. Here, history is not merely preserved but lived, breathed, and savored with every sip of the region's celebrated sparkling wine.
A Castle in the Clouds
As one approaches Saumur, the first sight to be beheld is the majestic Château de Saumur. This fortress, with its gleaming white towers and slate-blue roofs, seems to float above the town like a mirage. Originally built in the 10th century and rebuilt in the 14th, the castle has been witnessed to centuries of French history. Today, it houses a museum where the town's rich past can be explored, from its medieval origins to its role in the religious wars of the 16th century.
The castle's grounds offer panoramic views of the Loire River and the surrounding vineyards, providing a perfect introduction to the landscape that has shaped Saumur's identity for generations. As the sun sets, the castle is bathed in a golden light, creating a scene straight out of a romantic painting.
The Equestrian Legacy
Saumur's association with horsemanship is deeply rooted in its history. The town is home to the prestigious Cadre Noir, France's national riding school. Founded in 1825, this institution has been dedicated to the art of classical dressage for nearly two centuries. Visitors can be treated to demonstrations of the riders' incredible skill and the horses' grace at the school's facilities.
The influence of this equestrian tradition can be felt throughout the town. Statues of horses adorn public squares, and the rhythmic sound of hooves on cobblestone streets is not uncommon. For those inspired by this legacy, horse riding excursions through the surrounding countryside can be arranged, offering a unique perspective on the region's natural beauty.
A Toast to Tradition
No visit to Saumur would be complete without delving into its most famous export: wine. The town is renowned for its sparkling wines, often referred to as Saumur Brut. These effervescent delights are produced using the traditional method, the same process used in the Champagne region. However, Saumur's wines have a character all their own, reflecting the unique terroir of the Loire Valley.
Numerous wine cellars, carved into the soft limestone cliffs that surround the town, can be explored. These cool, dimly lit caves offer the perfect environment for aging wine and provide an atmospheric setting for tastings. Knowledgeable guides share the secrets of wine production, from the careful selection of grapes to the patient process of secondary fermentation that gives the wine its bubbles.
A Culinary Journey
Saumur's gastronomic offerings extend far beyond its famous wines. The town's restaurants showcase the best of Loire Valley cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. River fish, such as pike and perch, feature prominently on menus, often prepared with delicate cream sauces that are a hallmark of the region.
Local cheeses, particularly the ash-covered goat cheese known as Sainte-Maure de Touraine, are not to be missed. For those with a sweet tooth, the town's patisseries offer an array of delights, including the regional specialty fouace, a slightly sweet bread flavored with orange blossom water.
A Step Back in Time
Wandering through Saumur's old town is like stepping into a living history book. Half-timbered houses lean companionably against each other on narrow streets that wind their way up from the river. The Place Saint-Pierre, dominated by the Gothic church of the same name, serves as the heart of the old town. Here, a twice-weekly market has been held for centuries, offering an opportunity to sample local produce and soak in the authentic atmosphere of daily life in Saumur.
For those interested in delving deeper into the region's past, the Musée des Blindés offers a unique perspective. This museum houses one of the world's largest collections of armored vehicles, telling the story of mechanized warfare from its earliest days to the present.
Nature's Embrace
Beyond the town's borders, the natural beauty of the Loire Valley beckons. Cycling paths wind along the riverbanks and through the vineyards, offering a leisurely way to explore the landscape. The nearby Fontevraud Abbey, the largest surviving monastery from the Middle Ages in France, provides a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into monastic life.
As the day draws to a close, visitors might find themselves drawn back to the banks of the Loire. Here, as the river flows gently by and the lights of the town begin to twinkle, the timeless charm of Saumur can be fully appreciated. It's a place where history and tradition are not relics of the past, but living, breathing aspects of daily life.
In Saumur, every cobblestone tells a story, every glass of wine carries centuries of tradition, and every sunset paints the castle in new, breathtaking hues. It's a town that invites visitors to slow down, savor the moment, and become part of its ongoing story. For those seeking to explore more of France's hidden gems, Angers offers another captivating journey through the Loire Valley's rich tapestry of history and culture.
Michelin Restaurants in Saumur
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Masama
Experience a slice of South America behind this resplendent pistachio-green shopfront in the heart of Saumur. Colombian chef Marlon Medina made headlines in the local press when he coached his country's team for the Bocuse d'Or cooking contest in 2023. His cuisine may be multicultural, but it nevertheless shows clear South American leanings, which are sometimes allied with local ingredients (such as asparagus or mushrooms). For dinner, by means of a short and to-the-point menu, the chef proposes indulgent dishes such as an excellent picanha accompanied by an impeccable chimichurri condiment. Another signature dish is the ceviche, made with fish from the market. At lunchtime, there's a more typically French single set menu without options.
Saumur - FRANCE
L'Instinct
In his aptly named contemporary restaurant, chef Romain Bersan shows a distinct talent for cooking up modern cuisine. Spices make a welcome appearance, perfectly dosed with a sure hand (a case in point being the poultry jus elevated with smoked paprika and sake). Vegetarians can rest assured that the chef also caters to their dietary requirements. His delicious starter of vitello tonnato was nothing short of an escapade to Italy.
Saumur - FRANCE
L'Alchimiste
Despite the name you won’t find any molecular cuisine here. Instead, enjoy good, no - nonsense dishes such as courgette and goat’s cheese flan, and poached pears. It is often full so it is best to book.
Saumur - FRANCE
La Table du Château Gratien
In the landscaped grounds of the Gratien and Meyer wine estate, this adorable late 19C château oozes character and cachet – herringbone parquet, glittering chandeliers and a fireplace. The cuisine deftly showcases the region's fine produce – white asparagus, black truffle and Val de Loire potatoes. Herbs from the garden, excellent home-made bread, warm madeleines served with coffee. A taste of the good life.
Saumur - FRANCE
Le Boeuf Noisette
Take a seat in this vintage - style bistro, dotted with benches, marble tables and mirrors to sample a brief, well - designed menu focused on regional produce (particularly “Rouge des prés” beef). Ideally located behind the theatre, parallel with the Loir embankment and close to a large carpark. First - class, short food supply chain produce.
Saumur - FRANCE
L'Escargot
A pleasant contemporary setting for traditional cuisine and emblematic dishes, such as snails in butter, garlic and parsley. Chef-owner Dominique Dubert jazzes up a traditional repertory with the odd dash of modernity (combava, ginger, curry, etc). It is a pleasure to linger over a meal on the terrace of this Snail in summer.
Saumur - FRANCE
L'Essentiel
Nestled at the foot of the castle, this beautiful tuffeau-stone house sports charming dining rooms (parquet floors, exposed rafters and bare stone walls) and peaceful little patios. Chef Anthony Vaillant crafts food in the zeitgeist, jazzed up by a scattering of deft creative touches: start with a medley of asparagus and green peas, enhanced by a citrus fruit flavoured dressing followed by fabulously fresh cod flanked by a curry sauce and velvety mashed potato. Extremely attentive service. Regional tipples take pride of place on the wine list. An enjoyable culinary experience!
Saumur - FRANCE
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