It's all change at the Grain de Sel, with new premises in a vast 19C building that has had a complete makeover and a menu that showcases a passion for local and artisanal ingredients and fresh seasonal produce. The light-filled interior has an open kitchen and several contemporary areas done out in pale tones; there is also a terrace. Chef Aurélien Moutarlier, who was Romuald Fassenet's sous-chef at Château du Mont Joly, always delivers meticulous, colourful dishes that are cooked to perfection, such as his orange and coriander duck, butternut squash and polenta… He is a dab hand at seasoning, too.