Headed by a chef whose enthusiasm is contagious, this place is an ode to the seasons. Dishes are crafted from market-fresh ingredients and the menu changes regularly: wafer-thin tart of rock crab meat, avocado and green apple; roast duckling with stuffed thighs and mushroom and shallot duxelles. Fresh ingredients, recipes made from scratch, regional wines: a restaurant that cannot fail but win you over.