Luck has nothing to do with the current reputation of this downtown venue, facing Jean Jaurès Fountain, as the darling of the town’s discerning epicureans. The stripped-back interior sports a distinctly Scandinavian feel, which given the chef’s Swedish origins is hardly a surprise. On the culinary front, he deploys his undisputed talent, adding a new twist to French classics and conjuring up enticing recipes in tune with the era: generous portions, well crafted and oozing with flavour. The intelligent wine list and crack table staff, as professional as they are friendly, add the final flourish.