Let’s get down to the basics (or the Essentials), rather than losing time in pointless conjectures. The ingredient rules in this family-run restaurant, next-door to the cathedral, and Éric Vidal is its virtuoso (yet humble) servant. For thirty or so diners, he organises a genuine banquet of flavour, thanks to delicately balanced preparations. Wild turbot baked in olive oil, pressed celery with black truffles; tartare of mango and pineapple with passion fruit jelly and French almond tea cakes… The tasty culinary score is flanked by a selection of wines that is fully equal to the attractive menu. The slick, professional service adds a final flourish to the feast.